Now before I start cutting any of the precious GAP fabric, I need to be 100% certain on the pattern I am using, therefore I an going to make a new calico test jacket.
The first thing I have to do is re-draft the basic block from which my pattern will be drawn (see below).
Although I have a good range of sizes of trousers to use, ranging from a couple of waist 33s up to the biggest at waist 36, I have realised that even these will not cover the pattern shape for the front panels – well not in the same way I cut them last time around.
Since I am following precisely the same path taken by Louise Page when she designed the jacket, there must be a way around this. I just need to work it out.
To show the problem I have got, I dug out the pattern for the front panel of my first jacket and laid it on top of the largest piece of GAP fabric I have (from the back of the size 36) (see left).
You can see that the lapel to shoulder fits okay at the top, but the lower body over-hangs by a good 2 inches.
The way round this is to re-balance how the body panels are split up from the block.
What I have done is give more to the side panel, thus narrowing the front.
When this revised front pattern is laid over the GAP fabric, you can see it now fits (see right).
So now I have sorted that out, I need to start cutting this in calico and quickly knock up a test garment.
I covered a lot of this a while back under Pattern Cutting and Jacket Pockets, so I won’t repeat myself here.
But I will show you how it came together! (see below).
Now, I should point out it has not been hemmed or seamed around the edges, so it looks a little long and large in the lapels. This will all sort itself out when I get to the next stage.
Check back real soon to see how things shape up.