While I am a little distracted with some work on my new Tennant coat
, I thought I would share with you all some thoughts and comments on the suit from a follower of this blog, Seth.
Seth is a third year apparel design student who drafts his own patterns. He has just revised his Tennant Suit pattern and is now half way through the drafting of his Coat.
He is the owner of a Magnoli suit or three, all he reports, being slightly different from each other!
Being a trained pattern cutter, it was inevitable that he would attempt to deconstruct and then reconstruct one of his suits, where possible putting right the errors and inaccuracies down to the last detail.
I would like to thank Seth for his input for my blog.
I will be referring to his notes when I cut my pattern. Finally, I would also like to thank him for agreeing to let me publish them.
All the pictures on the left are Seth’s adapted suit, and those on the right are my own un-altered Magnoli suit.
The problems he encountered and solved were:
COLLAR AND LAPELS
Straightening the Collar points and Lapels to follow the pinstripes.
Seth noticed on Tennant’s suit that the Collar points are a tad bit longer than the Lapels. He cut his to 1 3/4 inches for the Collar point extensions and 1 1/2inches for the Lapels extension.
For Series 3, he also noticed that Louise Page (the costume designer) no longer followed the pinstripes on the Collar extension, as the pinstripes noticably trail off and are interrupted by a more “steep” extension. This has carried through to Series 4. Seth personally prefers the cut of the original Series 2 Collar.
BOX PLEAT POCKET
Moving and re-sizing the Box-Patch Pleat Pocket on the front of the suit.
Seth found the Patch Pleat was a real problem. He was stuck with the Suit rations in the form of button placement, side pocket openings and lapel slants. Tennant’s suit is actually on the long side.
Seth ensured that it sat 1/4 inch away from the slant lapel and 1/2 inch above second buttonhole (his buttonholes being spaced 3 1/4 inch apart). The bottom of the flap sits right above the top of the first button at around a 1/4 inch.
He reconstructed the Box-Patch Pleat Pocket to a 4 inch width. The Curved Flap measuring 2 inches long, sewn off a 1/4 inch at the top, with a Curved rise of 1/4 inch. The overall height by width when sewn on the jacket worked out to be 5 3/4 inches high by 4 inches wide.
Heightening the vent openning on the back and lowering the Back-Belt.
The Back-Belt needed to be lowered as it was sitting exactly at middle back.
His vent now sits at 9 3/4 inches and like Tennants Suit, the Vent begins at the bottom of the Back-Belt, which is at a 2 inch width.