The Phase One
of the cutting gave me the fabric to circumvent the body of the jacket, as well as all I needed for the external pockets (see right
Everything went well, so it’s time to return to the cutting bench and prepare some more pieces for assembly.
Pair 2 -
Size 34 x 34
I am cutting the sleeves for the suit now, and its a pretty forgone conclusion that the lower sleeves will be cut from the fronts of the trousers due to their width at the shoulder (see left, top
); and the upper sleeves are cut from the backs (see left, below)
I need to angle the sleeves such that the top parts are on grain, and the forearms are a little bit across the grain. when I get to the assembly of the sleeves I’ll show why I have done this.
I have positioned the upper sleeves as low as possible, leaving me a decent piece of off-cut.
When I first cut fabric from the GAP trousers, I had quickly realised that I would not get fabric wide enough to cut the collar in a single piece. I concluded that the screen used suit must
have a join at the back of the neck, so I will use this piece of left over to cut my collar.
I cut this just before I needed to set it, to make sure I cut it to fit correctly.
Pair 1 -
Size 34 x 30
I’ve returned to the pair that gave me the back of the jacket to cut the lapel facings.
While I’m on the cutting bench and have the pattern pieces to hand, I also cut what I need for the lining.
Most a straight repeats of the body of the jacket, but with a little adjustment to allow for movement and capacity inside the jacket.
The backs are cut with the vent allowance (see above
); and a special panel is shaped and cut to cover the front panel, minus the lapel facing.
This is pretty much everything I need now to complete the Ultimate Tennant Suit!