Tuesday 11 January 2011

Ultimate Tennant Suit -
finishing the calico test

I’m slowly getting my calico test jacket together.
So far I’ve cut the Pattern, and made the body and prepared the Lining ready to go in.

But before I cna final insert the lining I need to sort out the collar, as my method needs everything to come together at once.

I have cut the pattern for my collar, bearing in mind that the front edges need to be parallel to the pinstripes, meaning the two edges themselves are parallel. This restricts and dictates the shape I am working with (see below, left).
I need to cut this in under collar melton – I am using some of the green that I bought to test match the Six Frock Coat. It wasn’t quite the right colour, so it’s an excuse to use it up. I have also cut some stiffening to go around the neckline, over which the collar will flop (see below, right).

I then assemble the collar, the under collar and lapels, which are already attached to the lining (see left).

I have also drawn some pencil lines on the lapels to simulate the pinstripes to make sure everything is cut to the correct proportion.

This then completes the lining ready to put in place (see below).

It is sewn around the lapel and collar, leaving the front edges unsewn for now.
I do this so I can access the back vent and attach the lining here.

I can then sew the hem between the vent and the front edges where I stopped.
The front corners need to be rounded, so I use a simple trick of drawing around a suitably sized plate to get the curve right! (see above).

I’ve got some dull hand-sewing to finish the jacket off, as well as putting in some buttons and buttonholes.

Check back tomorrow to see how it comes out. Trust me though – it’s looking good!

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